Stage 2 is designed to enhance Stage 1 once the rear cradle movement is addressed. Expect tight, performance car handling and wheel hop control like you've never experienced before. You're missing out on one of the most dynamic performance improvements you can add to your vehicle if you think this is strictly a six speed issue. Although, automatic driven Challengers, Chargers, Magnums, and Chrysler 300 don't suffer from the extreme wheel hop that most six speeds vehicles are experiencing, they do all share the same unwanted movement at the rear cradle bushings/mounts. The boat rocking sensation mentioned in the Stage 1 summary and the suspension flex are keeping you from enjoying the full potential of your vehicle's IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) even if you've already added stiffer springs, sway bars, coilovers, etc. We accomplish this level of performance with our proprietary CNC produced brackets that allow us to attach a horizontal stabilizer from each wheel hub to the rear mounting area of the cradle itself. The rear cradle frame is by far the strongest item under these cars. All late model Dodge Challengers, Chargers, Magnums, and Chrysler 300 have a five link IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) that offers a comfortable ride, but makes performance handling and wheel hop or sometimes referred to as power hop difficult to control. These IRS systems have ten rubber bushings per side, twenty four in all if you include the four that are used in the cradle mounts. Stage 1 eliminates the movement at the four cradle bushings/mounts, but then it's up our Stage 2 kit to control the flex of the IRS components. Although, these cars don't suffer from the same type of axle wind up that the older versions did, they do endure a tightening or flexing of all the IRS arms, links, and rubber bushings that must be controlled. Stage 2 works with the normal up and down motions of the suspension components with minimal affects on ride quality. Stage 2 allows the IRS arms, links, and rubber bushings to tighten, but then it briefly holds it in avoidance of becoming a repetitive hop as traction is gained and lost.
Each lower aluminum bracket goes through a five cut CNC process then receives a special bend that allows us to take advantage of two mounting points at the wheel hubs for maximum strength. You could work your cars suspension from full extension to fully compressed and won't have any clearance issues...we already have. The upper stabilizer mounting brackets start with the same rear machined spacers used in our Stage 1 kit, then we weld on a special CNC produced angle bracket and locating pin that utilizes existing holes in each side of the cradle's frame.
Plant the rear tires like never before. In fact, you'll have the ability to launch harder than ever, even if you launch with wheel spin because our Stage 2 Stabilizer kit will make the tires bite within a few feet. Understandably, the type and size of the tires you're using will have an affect, as well as road conditions and the level of power you're putting to the wheels, but you'll experience major traction and handling improvements in any application as compared to without having the Hop Not products.
Stage 2 is now available for lowered vehicles. Just be sure to select the correct item when you check out.
Please note; The standard Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit and the Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit For Lowered vehicles will not interchange. Only install the Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit For Lowered Vehicles on Vehicles that have been lowered and the standard Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit on vehicles that have a stock, unchanged ride height/stance. If you've lowered your vehicle any and haven't replaced the OEM shocks with shorter versions you may have to push the suspension up enough to install our Stage 2 Stabilizers at the time of install because although you've lowered your vehicle, the stock shocks will let the suspension hang to the full extension while the tires are off the ground. Also, be aware that the stock shocks are the limiting/stops and they only have a certain amount of travel before they will bottom out. For example, a stock SRT Challenger shock sits at about 2 and 1/4 inches as measured on the shock body itself on a car that has not been lowered and maxes out at about 5 inches of travel, so if you've lowered the car two inches you'll have very little travel left before the shock is bottomed out. This may cause a very harsh ride and eventually cause the shock to blow out or cause other issues. With this in mind, it's best to replace the OEM shocks when you lower your vehicle accordingly.
Warning; Stage 1 must be installed prior to adding Stage 2 in any application. The upper Stage 2 brackets replace the rear machined spacers that are used with the Stage 1 kit. Attempting to install Stage 2 as a stand alone kit may result in failures since the front cradle mounts are still rubber mounted if the Stage 1 kit hasn't already been installed. Never drive the car without all four mounting points of the cradle addressed. Please see the above warning.
Please see our FAQ section for additional tips and information about this product.